Written on 3.1.13.

My life flashed before my eyes this afternoon.  As I boarded the Semaya One fast boat to Nusa Lembongan, I couldn't predict what might happen about an hour from that time.  But during the journey I dozed off into a sweaty slumber, in and out of dreams in the hot air of the cabin so thick with humidity you could swim through it.  In one of those dreams I had a flash of a sinking boat and immediately started thinking of what action I would take if disaster struck.  I was fading in and out of sleep with each crash of the boat down on another wave.  The hull hit pretty hard on a few, but I faded off...until the one crack that woke us all.  A wave had crashed over the bow and smashed in the two front windows of the captain's wheelhouse.  Water came rushing in and a mild panic ensued amongst the crew and fifteen or so passengers.  The boat was rocking and rolling still and again, another wave crashed over the bow, water rushing in.  After one more wave came rushing in we were all standing in about a foot of water in the cabin, and the hull had significantly more water in it.  The boat's ballast was way off and with a couple more rollers the boat nearly capsized as a result.  An Indonesian woman who lives in Canada was screaming and she handed me her four year old saying, "Please, save my son, please."  So I held him and tried to calm the mother who was near hysterics.  We all had life jackets on at this point too, but many weren't even laced up properly.  We all braced ourselves for the possibility of disaster and I phoned my parents, followed by a call to the boat company to tell them I was on one of their boats and it had taken on a significant amount of water.  We were limping along as the crew of four or five guys were hard at work bailing water from the hull with buckets, clearly the bilge pump had failed after about twenty seconds of pumping.  But all is well that ends well.  The boys got the water bailed and the captain kept her afloat, and we motored all the way to Sanur.  We only had one scare when the engines quit in sight of shore, adding to the unsettled feeling of the folks on board.  But it must have just been electrical because they fired back up.  So we cruised the next hour anticipating the end of the journey anxiously.  I had a four year old Canadian Indonesian boy asleep on my lap, occasionally needing to comfort and reassure his mother until we reached the beach at Sanur.

This experience made me take a look at life and how fragile it is.  It made me realize how great each day we have on earth is.  I post it today because this morning I found out one of my best friends, Joe, who I work with Smokejumping, died this past weekend in an avalanche.  He was an amazing person who lived everyday to the fullest.  He was only 26 years young, but he had many lifetimes of experience.  He was a sage, a wise man beyond his years.  He was gifted at everything he did.  He was an extremely talented athlete and an exceptional artist.  He shined, overflowing with warmth, happiness and love.  His energy was infectious and I value every minute I was fortunate enough to share with him.  He was my Rookie Bro, he was a best friend, he was a brother.  He will be deeply missed, but never forgotten.  We shared some great times together.  He only had a short time on this earth, but made the most of everyday.  Joe told people how he felt about them, and wasn't afraid to say I love you.  To all those reading this, I love you.  Next time you feel like life isn't everything you want it to be, be thankful that you have a life, and go out and live it.  Joe died doing what he loved doing.  Never stop living like there is no tomorrow. 

I'll see you all Stateside in a couple days.

Welcome to Indonesia.

I've been here now for a little over two weeks now and it's been a warm, wonderful, visually stimulating, hospitable, friendly, and awakening trip so far.

I arrived in Bali and promptly left for the small island of Nusa Lembongan where I met some amazing people, surfed for a number of days, and got certified as an open water scuba diver.  The course took three days and I ended with four open water dives which granted me access to a whole new world that exists under the sea.  I saw manta rays, amazing coral, fluorescent fish of all colors and sizes, barracuda, surgeon fish and so much more.

From Lembongan I took a boat to Lombok where I have discovered wonderful people and a breathtaking countryside.

Traveling provides some truly remarkable gifts sometimes.  Yesterday, myself, and my French friend Florence who stays next door to me at Diyah's Homestay met with his two other friends Yan and Beat.  Yan is a German, Chinese, Indonesian who grew up in Jakarta and speaks Indonesian, English, German, French, Spanish and Portuguese.  And Beat is from Switzerland.  So the four of us took a 35 minute motorbike ride to a great beach west of Kuta, Lombok.  It was absolutely breathtaking and untainted by tourism.  Just locals and a couple foreign land owners.  They had obviously discovered paradise and decided to buy a piece of it.  But the colorful boats, crystal blue water, green hillsides, white sand, smoke in the air from cooking fires, and the people there were amazing.  Naked kids playing soccer and running free on the beach, old women cooking fish over a fire, and old men roasting corn over hot coals.  It was spectacular.  We had a feast of epic proportions including corn, rice, vegetables, chicken, fresh tuna, and barracuda, followed by a stout cup of coffee.  All for less than a few dollars a piece.  We played with the kids on the beach, and body surfed waves crashing in.  We took a lazy walk down the beach with a homely looking dog who took a liking to us and then rode our motorbikes back to Kuta through valleys of green rice fields, past men and women toiling in the paddies or chopping corn, through groups of buffalo being walked down the road to greener pastures, and by families in small villages sitting outside their homes exclaiming bright hellos, smiling and waving as we drove by.  The people here are beautiful.  Bright eyes, warm smiles, dark brown skin and glowing personalities.  Very friendly people they are.

So after my time in Fiordland National Park I went back to see Ginny and Gerry, Eve and Paddy at Halfway Bay Station.  We enjoyed a great meal and some Emerson's Pilsners and the following day I went on one last sheep muster in the high country with Gerry and his new shepherd Mark.  The top photo is the walk down after getting the mob through a tricky gate to graze the high country for the summer.

I ended my trip in Queenstown and went on an epic mission to bid farewell to the country I've come to love.  Yesterday I walked up the 3,000 + foot elevation gain to the top of The Remarkable Mountains which stand proud over Frankton, Queenstown, and Lake Wakatipu.  I made it to the top for an illuminated late day view over the valley below and bid farewell to the sun as I made my way down the back side of the range to Lake Alta.  After a good long drink of ice cold water from the lake I started down.  I descended the ski area nestled on the back side of the range and ran the access road out the 12km to the main road, and the remaining 6km back to town.

The run was amazing, two hours of bliss.  A breeze in my face, hair blowing in the wind, Lake Wakatipu below, the amber hue of tussock and silhouetted speargrass on ridgelines.  Miraculous mountains to the west, snow capped Alps to the north, the TSS Earnslaw returning from it's sunset cruise, and me in a zone of my own, rolling down.  The sun set transforming the sky from pale blue and orange to a glowing fire in the west, and endless pastel shades of purple to the east.  The first stars showed in the north, and I followed an upside down Orion to the north, while the Southern Cross watched my back as I churned my way over the Kawarau river and up the low lit slopes of Frankton.

Thanks for everything New Zealand!

The Milford Track and Milford Sound are acclaimed for a reason.  I had an amazing four day walk in well worn leather boots through places I wasn't sure even existed.  You can tell a lot about a man by looking at his boots.

I'm high above MacKinnon Pass communing with the Keas high flying over worlds unknown below.  This place is pure magic, pure!  The beauty surrounding me is inexplicable.  Mother Nature, the creator of all this magnificence can't even explain how she pulled this one off.  Wow!

Following my stint in Nelson Lakes, I made it back up to Mapua to bid farewell to Mary and headed south to Queenstown.  I based out of here for the remainder of my trip in NZ.  The above are photos from the Routeburn Track.  A beautiful three day walk through amazing high country in Fiordland National Park.  I camped in some beautiful places and met some wonderful international travelers.  So after three days of walking, sweating, swimming and taking in breathtaking views, I went to Te Anau to prepare for the acclaimed Milford Track the following day.

Treetops whistle as the first stars show.  The stone peaks surrounding Lake McKenzie still pose in the remaining twilight, standing guard over the valley.  And I allow my tired self, after a tea with whiskey, to slowly fade off to bed and the coming night.

I spent a week volunteering for the Department of Conservation in the Nelson Lakes National Park after the kayak trip with Mary.  We were charged with cleaning and painting one of the remote huts in the East Matakitaki valley and clearing a bit of trail.  We easily accomplished these tasks and the rest was like a vacation.  Myself, a young German guy named Moritz, the two Kiwis above, Nigel and Martin, and our DOC trip leader Kerri flew in to this beautiful valley for five days of tramping around, working and deer hunting.  Both Nigel and Martin bagged a red deer hind a piece.  It was a good week.

She's done it again, Mother Nature never ceases to inspire me to put pen to paper.  The slow trickle of a spring waterfall behind me, birds singing in the breeze, the alpen glow of west facing peaks at sundown and the low rushing churn of the river below is where I live right now.  Perched in a rock slide high above the East Matakitaki Valley below, looking South at the Majesty that these mountains behold as the sun lingers no longer and the foreboding gray of a cloudy twilight over stone peaks starts to take shape.  I feel infinitely inconsequential amongst these giants, but privileged to be allowed in their company.  For a brief moment in time I get to exist in a place that they've called home for thousands of years.  Time marches on and they watch it march right on by.  

I'm in the Blenheim area now, I got five days of work wire lifting on vineyards in the area.  It's monotonous work, but a great physical job.  It's good to work outside, get fit and not spend any money.

It was a lovely sunset here at the Wairu River mouth.  Pastel blue and orange swept over the western sky as gulls soared over the Wairu Bar facing into an incessant north wind.  I will sleep well again tonight after a physical ten hour day in the sun.

The above photo was one of about seven vineyards we worked on through the week.